Cueca

Hi all!

This week hasn't been that exciting, I am getting into the routine of teaching now and it takes me less time to plan classes. The week was pretty full on, as I did't finish class until 9pm (or later) three nights of the week. But I guess it keeps me out of trouble.

On Thursday night I went out to dance cueca, the national dance, with three of my Chilean friends. Well to be fair, I didn't really know that we were going out dancing as the message was pretty much, "what are you doing, come have a drink, take a taxi to this address"... but I soon found out when I got there. They tricked me really, but it was all good.

Cueca is a strange semi-choreographed dance to strange 6/8 music. It is meant to depict the rooster chasing the hen, and the hen being evasive and elusive until he eventually catches her at the end. The rooster displays his affections by advanging on the hen twirling a hankie high above his head while the hen uses her hankie more like a shield to be coy with him.

It started in the mid 1800's in the barrios or Chile and was very popular. Then when Pinochet was in power he declared it the national dance to try and raise patriotism for the country, and apparently until recently many people have associated it with his regime. However, it was also used as a form of protest during those years, as groups of women would dance it solo to represent the many men who 'disappeared' under Pinochet. There are regional variations according to where you are dancing it too apparently. It is back to being fairly popular now though, especially on national independence day and other national holidays.

Anyway, its harder than it looks! And we were in a bar where everyone knew what they were doing (and apparently they learn it at school). My friends tried to teach me, but I wasn't the fastest learner. It doesn't help that they are teaching me in Spanish, and of course with it being loud, I am trying to understand and translate what they are saying in my head, while keeping my legs, hands, hips and hankie all under control and listen to the music. Its a bit tricky! I had fun though. We had a bit of a problem that we were one guy and three girls at our table, and you really need a partner. As I was left alone at the table some unfortunate fellow asked me to dance... they do this by waving their hankie at you which I find extremely amusing. Anyway, I tried to explain in my wonderful spanish that I would like to dance but didn't really have a clue what to do, and I think he understood (poor chap). Anyway, I was concentrating so hard on what my feet were doing and trying not to run into anyone that I got a bit over-zealous with my hankie waving and flicked the poor guy in the eye with the corner of it - which really hurts! Oopps. At least I didn't stand on his feet I guess.... So I had a lot of fun. And my friends tell me that I have to practice so that I can dance at dieceocho (18th Septemeber - national day with a massive party and lots of cueca in the street). We will see. First I need to learn to keep my hankie under control...

Had a despidida (farewell) for one of the teachers last night. Conner is going back to the states to do a graduate degree in something. Was nice to go out and understand what was going on (all in English) and be able to make conversation with new people really. I had almost forgotton what it was like to no have to sit in the corner concentrating like crazy and only ever understanding about half of what was going on.... So I had a fun night.

Anyway, I have quite a bit of class planning to do for the week ahead, and a test to write (oh joy).
Chao chao!
The uncoordinated flightless bird who cannot make conversation with anyone (really what have I got going for me?!).

Public holidays and parties.

Hola all,
I don't really have that much to write this week! It has been fairly quiet really with no good stories to tell. Routine almost....

Classes this week were good. My new classes are going along really well and the students seem to be enjoying them which is the main thing (oh and learning something along the way which I guess is also somewhat important). Thursday was a public holiday as I have previously mentioned. I think it was some commemoration of a naval battle at Iquique in the north, but I couldn't be totally sure. There are a lot of public holidays here... And then two of my three classes cancelled on Friday to take a "sandwich" day. I kid you not, that is what they call it. I think it is a genius term and encourage everyone to use it! Basically it then becomes a 4 day weekend which is pretty cool.

On Wednesday night we had a teacher's party at Joannes house. Not everyone was there which was a little disappointing, but it was good to put faces to names of the partners that I keep hearing about. Was a nice night, with good food, wine and company.

On Friday night I went out for a drink with my housemate, and then to some music with Shawn and a couple of other people. We saw Federico Wolf, and he was amazing. Talk about a human instrument! Beat box, scat, trumpet and trombone, rain sounds, as well as beautiful singing and playing guitar. He isn't well known in Chile, and it was a pretty small intimate crowd, but it was really amazing music. I would buy his CD anyday. It was certainly a contrast to last weeks mad music!

Yesterday, (Saturday), I went to a asado at Anne and Rodrigo's house with all Rodrigo's cousins and a couple of other teachers. Was really fun, and of course the food was amazing (have I mentioned how much I like Chilean asado?!). Was a lot of Spanish talk of course, and I understood a lot which was good. Conversation is still ultra frustrating though, and all my stories have to be modified into something I can actually say, which usually means they aren't so interesting! People are fairly patient though which is lucky for me. I was exhausted after 8hrs of Spanish though, so came home at the very respectable hour of 11pm.

I have a full week of classes this week. It looks like I might be going to pick up another private class with a friend of a friend too which would be good. From what I can gather (in my limited Spanish) it is helping her 7 yr old son with his English homework and generally trying to improve his learning in English. Could be quite challenging, but hopefully fun. And once you have one or two privates word starts to get around, and the money is much better!

My trip to Peru has been postponed. They couldn't get me a pass for the Inca trail, and decided that they really want to give me the opportunity of doing the Inca as that is what I won. So I am going at the end of September instead (hopefully - pass permitting!) It was a bit awkward though as I had bought non-refundable plane tickets (ie the cheapest that I could get), so Intrepid have agreed to refund those too. In the end it might end up cheaper for me as I will be able to watch for cheap flights. It is all good, and probably suits me a bit better as I will have some time to save a bit more money etc.

Today I am off to the shops to try and hunt out another pair of shoes and some more work clothes. With the weather getting colder one pair of work pants just doesn't cut it. Some of my classes I could get away with jeans, but not with any of the new classes so I really need business clothes arrgghh! I pretty much have three black or white tops, one pair of pants, and just change the color of the scarf or jewellery that I wear. It works out well and means that everything matches which is important when you are working on a wardrobe out of a suitcase as I am!

Better go, as shops probably shut fairly early on Sunday. Might have to venture out to the bug mall with the other million people who will be there. Fun times. I just love dealing with crowds of really slow moving people (not!)

Chao chao,
The adventuring kiwi.

Work concerts and parties.

Wow, I have had a busy week and an eventful weekend. The week was long because I had 4 new classes, which is always challenging! Especially when one was right on the outskirts of the city and I had to take a bus for an hour just to get there! Peñalolén is a really long way out of the centre of town!! But it is a good class because Joanne has given it to me as a private class, and its 2hrs (one hour with the daughter and one with the mother), so the money is pretty great and makes the long trip worth it. The other new classes are with two different banks in town, and Sanofi-Aventis a pharmaceuticals company. Each case is a one on one class with one of the high level managers, but they all seem nice, if quite ambitious! So I am officially on a fairly full teaching load of 25hrs a week. I am getting much more efficient with my planning that is for sure! There is also a public holiday on Thursday this week which gives me respite from the four classes I have that day which will make a big difference I think. They do have a lot of random public holidays here....

On Firday night I went to a concert with Shawn and a couple of her other teacher friends, and I have never laughed so hard. It wasn't comedy - it was rock! And I had tears streaming down my face. The lead singer of the first band came out dressed in LYCRA wearing a BICYCLE HELMET!!! I kid you not - these guys were like the village people on speed. There was a clown, a cowboy, a guy in a suit, an army dude, and a grandad. They were all completely unattractive and insisted on strutting around the stage wiggling various parts of their anatomy, or trying body rolls and hip grinds. The music was a cross between Sublime and some thrash metal, and only about 1/3 was even remotely enjoyable, but man it was funny! I of course forgot my camera, but the image of the lycra clad lead singer is a memory burned in for eternity I fear. I have ripped a photo off the internet so you too can share the joy. If you are really interested, try googling "Sinergia", there are some fairly amusing video clips on YouTube.


The second band was marginally better, and their costumes were normal. Their antics were fairly extra-ordinary though. The symbol of the band is this crazy pig thing, and lots of people in the crowd had their own pig. There was a sort of competition to see who could dress their pig the wackiest, and they hold them up high throughout the concert (which must have hurt their arms because these things are the size of a small 2yr old). Anyway, I saw a Batman and a red riding hood, a gnome, an alien and a magician, but the funniest was the normal looking pig with a swine flu mask on. Hehe, that made me giggle.

Was a fairly crazy night, and as usual it was done Latin style so the crowd was going totally crazy and the mosh pit looked more dangerous than at a Metallica concert. Everyone was singing and dancing and no one was holding back! It was tons of fun, even if the music and the sound was quite average at times.

Then last night (Saturday) I went to a birthday party of one of the guy's from the Viña's cousins (did I get those apostrophes correct - damn English teacher who can't even write apostrophes correctly. Please don't tell anyone). Anyway, only met the cousin yesterday afternoon when I was at his house for lunch, and when I turned up to the party at what I thought was a suitably late time (11.30pm), there weren't many people there and I knew only the birthday boy (and not well having only the afternoon's experience with him). Was OK though, as people spotted me as the odd one out, and came to practice their English on me, and laugh at my attempts at Spanish. The dancing started pretty soon after, and three other guys from the Viña turned up, and I had a great time. I have not danced so much in the longest time, and they played English music (think Guns n Roses and Michael Jackson) as well as Latin music. There was plenty of Salsa, which I still suck at, but luckily no Tango because I really suck at Tango! Some of the girls were again trying to teach me "Latin hips", and although I am improving (I think) I am always going to be the slightly wooden gringa at the Latin party! Hehe, I don't really mind, just wish I could dance with people a little better. I guess it is like language though, practise practise practise - and I seem to have plenty of willing teachers so it isn't a big problem. All in all it was a great night, and I arrived home when the party ended about 5am.

So today I have been to the ferria (vege market) and have some planning of classes to do. A nice quite day en mi casa not doing too much sounds just good. Who knows what this week will bring...

Love and hugs to all,
KiwiKaz.

Pichilemu

I was away again this weekend, to Pichilemu, a beach town about three hours south of Santiago. I was with Shawn and the people from the grape picking weekend, so it was lots of fun! We arrived late on Friday night and went straight to the beach to meet some of the others. The water was freezing but I still managed to get soaked, and generally had a lovely time frolicking on the beach like a child in the darkness... Asado for dinner was ready about 2am (as usual) and was delicious, and there was the usual chilean party involving guitars and the beat box and lots of singing. There was some talk of a swimming contest in the lake, though I was warned that there is a monster that lives in the lake, that only attacks blondes. To be fair they may have been alluding to the guy that I was going to be racing against... Anyway, the contest didn't end up happening so I didn't have to deal with any monsters.

The next day was a bit slow (it was quite a party), but we went down to the beach and paddled and built sandcastles with the kids. Pichilemu is a surf spot, with really long breaks, and apparently sometimes montstrous sized waves (last week they were 9m apparently). Pretty quiet while we were there though, with only hardy souls in full boiler suits, hoods and booties venturing out. I really was tempted to go swimming, but it was pretty damn cold. About the same as Dunedin in winter (though that never used to stop me - maybe I am getting old?!)

Lunch was at a cheap and delicious beachside restaurant. I have ceviche, which is a Peruvian dish of fish sort of mashed and pickled with lemon and lime juice, and possibly a bit of chilli. My description doesn't really do it justice as it is a taste sensation. Shawn had to go back to Santiago (thus abandoning me with a group of Spanish speakers) so after dropping her at the bus we headed out to Punto de Lobos - where the serious surfing is. We arrived at sunset and it was breathtaking. There were plenty of surfers out in the water trying out the more substantial looking waves, and it reminded me a bit of Dunedin, and the surf point not far from Aunty Trish's house that I can't quite remember the name of - Longbeach maybe?? Anyway, sunset was spectacular.

Was off to the supermarket to buy food for more asado, and I was impressed to watch the men take complete charge of the shopping. The night was a bit quieter with the exit of a few people, but really fun. There was a bit of salsa, and I was able to talk a little with everyone which was great. I am still hopeless, but I think they are getting more used to my hopelessness and finding it easier to decipher!

Drive home was interesting, as Eduardo speaks even less English than I do Spanish, but we managed to fill in the time, and had a real laugh trying to find our way through Santiago in the dark with no map! It didn't help that the driver was having trouble distinguishing right from left, and is a little short sighted, so I had to read the signs (in my appalling accent), and he had to try and decipher what I was saying. I got very good at saying "no otra derecha!!" (no the other right!!). Made it home fine though, and generally had a great weekend. I think this weekend I am actually staying in Santiago, though I believe I am going to someone's cousin's 21st or something on Saturday night.... I have been ultra lucky to meet such a nice, forgiving and patient bunch of people. I can only hope that I would have done the same in their position! Communication is seriously difficult, but they keep inviting me places and trying to help me. I have learnt that smiling and trying really does get you a long way!

In other exciting news - I won a trip to Peru. Yep, I won something! Its pretty amazing really. I entered a competition with Intrepid, the company that I went to Vietnam with last year, for an 8 day trip in Peru including the Inca trail and Machu Pichu, and I won! I have to pay for the flights, and the local payment, but given this is an experience I would have been paying for in total later in the year, it is pretty lucky for me (and is worth about NZ$1000). So flights are all organised and everything is confirmed - I leave on the 6th of June. The only uncertainty is whether they will actually be able to get me a permit for the Inca trail, as it is limited to 500 people per day and this quota is usually filled a month in advance. However, I will get to trek the Lares trail if the Inca is full, which still goes to Machu Pichu, so it will still be awesome. Am slightly worried about how I might cope with the altitude - the highest point on the Inca trail is 4200m, and Cuzco itself sits 3300m. Anyway, no idea how it will affect me, so there is really no point in worrying too much. I will see what happens when I get there!

Have a few new students in the last couple of weeks, business men. The latest one is quite high up in ScotiaBank, in charge of overseeing the economic investments section for Chile, so maybe I will learn something about this financial crisis from him. They are all really nice people and I get on well with them, and am really enjoying all my classes at the moment. Its interesting that I teach 13 men and only 2 women... Apparently women aren't in the high positions and therefore don't often get the luxery of learning English. I guess this is still a developing country even though it is difficult to remember that when you look around.

OK, better go. Got to go to the notary which is my least favourite job as they speak to me in rapid Spanish which I don't understand and then refuse to do what I want them to. And I am left guessing what it is I have done wrong.

Until next time,
KiwiKaz

PS. Pics are of Shawn and I on Picilemu beach, Punta de Lobos at sunset, and the lagoon in Pichilemu at sunset.

Chilean Asado

Chileans make the best asado (BBQ) that I have ever tasted. Seriously, Kiwis and Aussies could learn a lot on the art of asado from these people. The key is PATIENCE!!! I am not sure if it is because you don't eat until 2am, or that you have drunk a lot of piscolas while waiting, but the meat is amazing. Basically, no one gets around to even starting the fire until midnight - nothing done is haste! Then you light a roaring fire in the BBQ (or an open fire) and throw most of a bag of charcoal on it. Wait until it stops spitting sparks and is just red coals (this is the key I am told). This usually takes about an hour, and you have to make sure you stir it around periodically so that the coals underneath have a chance to emit their sparks. Even out the coals, put a grill on the top, and add the meat and about half a packet of salt (they really like salt over here). Turn the meat periodically until cooked (anywhere between 1-2hrs depending on what you are cooking). Pork is the meat of favour, but anything can be done. And I am not talking steaks or small pieces of meat - it is usually about half an animal in one piece still. It is absolutely delicious. Often there is chilipan for entree - a type of sausages in bread deal, except the sausages are spicy and delicious (not like the supermarket varieties at home) and the bread is rolls that are more like french bread, fresh and delicious. It is all about the meat, you are pretty lucky if someone happens to make a salad. And salad is a loose term, usually meaning a bit of washed lettuce with a whole lot of salt and lemon on it. So there you go, Chilean asado. Simply delicous.

Trip to Mendoza, Argentina

Hi all,

Well I made it back from Argentina in one piece. There was one hairy second where I thought they were going to reject me on re-entry, but more on that later.

I left for Mendoza on a very long bus trip on Friday (public holiday, the equivalent of Labour day). I didn't have a hostel booked or anything, just packed my bag and left - probably not the best way of doing things but it worked out OK. It is a long trip, through some fairly amazing country. Crossing the Andes is not to be taken lightly, and the road is simply breathtaking, as were the views. It literally dog-legs up the side of this enormous mountain, and the actual border is a tunnel. The bus people had the border crossing pretty much down to a fine art - everyone off the bus, exit Chile with one set of immigration, walk 20m and enter Argentina with a second immigration office. Then there is a big line up where they go through your handbag and x-ray all the luggage. In all it took a bit over an hour, which I didn't think was that bad for a large busload of people from all over the world. Then there was an hour waiting in the bus for them to double check some of the paperwork, which I just found frustrating - I am not known for my patience.

The Argentinian side of the crossing isn't nearly as exciting, just down a valley the whole way, and not nearly so steep (Mendoza is still quite high up). I arrived into the city with no Argintinian pesos and nowhere to stay, at 7pm. After sorting some cash I found a taxi for town, and tried a couple of hostels before finding one with a bed. Was quite good actually, a room with 2 sets of bunks and a private bathroom (with a dodgey toilet and dirty shower), but still, private. Was two French girls in the room the first night, but had it to myself the second night.

Had to go and find some food (was starving). No problem, plenty of places to eat, and a massive night market going on in the main plaza, Plaza Independencia. In town I managed to find a table at a restaurant that was almost totally full (10pm is prime eating hour), and ordered a steak sandwich, which was delicious. Home through the market and to sleep.

Next day I spent wandering the streets and exploring the plazas of Mendoza. The entire city was flattened in 1861, and the authorities, anticipating another earthquake, rebuillt the city with wide streets and large plazas for people to escape the falling rubble. All the streets a lined with trees, and the place is generally very pleasant. The shopping was also more agreeable than in Chile, though I didn't really spend anything. They bring a whole new meaning to window shopping, with all shops setting their doors back 5m from the entrance, and having big glass windows displaying their wares before you enter the shop.

Plaza Independencia was where the action was at night, with the night market in full swing selling really beautiful wares, and street entertainers and musicians entertaining the crowds who come to hang out. Seems like many Mendocinos were there, just hanging out and seeing what was going on. With the rapid approach of very cold weather in Santiago I did buy myself a beautiful wool wrap, a bit like a poncho in shape, woven on a big triangle loom. It is red (what a surprise) and beautiful.

Then Sunday was just the 7hr trip home again - what fun. I slept more this time, and watched some movies in Spanish. The border was a bit hairy when the immigration officer took exception to me re-entering on a tourist visa and had a long involved discussion with her co-worker about it. I was sweating a little - especially when she asked me "are you working" - "no, of course not, just on vacation". Anyway, once my work visa application is in this week I won't have to worry about that anymore. Was probably a good move telling her I spoke no Spanish as she couldn't question me further, and thought I didn't understand her conversation with her amiga, when really I understood quite a lot. Anyway, she eventually decided it was OK, but I am not keen to push my luck again!

On returning to Santiago I was soon off for dinner at Shawn's (the teacher from grape picking), with several of her Chilean musician friends. When I turned up they were having a jam session which was really fun. Turns out some of them are actually quite famous in Chile. Who knew? Not me (until later). Was tons of fun though, singing and laughing.

Last week I also taught my first class out at the airport - a 3hr class. That takes some planning! But the people are really nice and of a good intermediate level so there are plenty of things we can do, and they speak quite a bit so it shouldn't be too hard. It is pretty interesting getting there though. First the metro, then the airport bus to the airport, then a shuttle bus (but you have to be careful to get the right one as we got the wrong one and had to be let out to walk back to the airport), to the office. The shuttle bus driver was convinced that us three teachers were actually tourists who were probably lost - luckily the other teachers speak Spanish and were able to set him right! Luckily there is a bus directly form the office to the metro after class (though that driver was also convinced we were lost). I did find it a little worrying when I asked the engineers how they managed to fix the big boeing and airbus planes when the manuals are in English and they don't read that much and they told me that "usually they can figure it out", though sometimes it is a bit difficult when they use words like "until a velocity of X" - does that mean it needs to be more than X? I was a little worried.... Perhaps we should cover words like "never" and "until" first in this course?!

Anyway, this is another long entry. I have a class soon so had better ensure that I have everyting straight.
Chao Chao,
KiwiKaz